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The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Basque auberge on Quai Saint-Exupéry — Pierre Oteiza Kintoa pork, pintxos, the Trinquet Village Seine-edge terrace.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay — chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion — Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes