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1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.