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1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes