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1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie — Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome — choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

2-Michelin institution off Place des Ternes — 45 years of haute French classicism.

MOF chef, 1-Michelin, Parisian-apartment dining on rue Bayen.

Jean-Marc Notelet's chalkboard bistro — spice-forward cuisine du marché near l'Étoile.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Franck Baranger's bistronomy benchmark — Bib Gourmand on a Pigalle backstreet.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house — heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

The first Italian in Paris to win a Michelin star — 600-bottle list, 40 years on.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes