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The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.