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Marais Korean BBQ — chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome — choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique — Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914 — Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet — GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion — Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.