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The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.