Intimate in Paris

Tiny zinc-bar bistro near Châtelet — GaultMillau toque, charcuterie from named Auvergne producers.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot — the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay — chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

12 rooms, all looking onto Place des Vosges — Evok Collection's quietest, most contemplative Paris address.

Southwest French institution since 1894 — Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul — twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes