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Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister, daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque, the SoPi room that never feels off.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier, the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Marais Korean BBQ, chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990, tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004, riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique, Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro, fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.