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Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking — opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière — a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier — the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Marais Korean BBQ — chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990 — tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique — Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

Big Mamma's four-floor Florentine theatre under a Pigalle glass roof.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière — Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates