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Madeleine institution since 1927, the first-floor caviar dining room above the boutique.

Christian Le Squer's three-Michelin showcase inside George V, the textbook for Paris haute cuisine.

Place de la Madeleine institution since 1839, Hugo Bourny's contemporary take on the Art Nouveau room.

The Directoire mansion with the retractable roof, a multi-decade Paris institution off the Champs-Élysées.

Truffle institution on the Madeleine since 1932, boutique downstairs, restaurant upstairs.

2-Michelin institution off Place des Ternes, 45 years of haute French classicism.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood, no meat.

Simone Zanoni's Mediterranean-Italian one-Michelin at George V, the palace alternative to a tasting menu.

Three-Michelin since 1996, the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Yannick Alléno's three-Michelin in a pavilion at the Champs-Élysées gardens, the sauce-extraction reference.

Yasunari Okazaki's two-Michelin sushi counter inside Pavillon Ledoyen, twelve seats, ikejime fish.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

The Plaza's restored heritage-French dining room, recipes excavated from two-and-a-half centuries of menus.

Stéphanie Le Quellec's two-Michelin counter-front room on avenue Matignon.

Two-Michelin in an 1884 mansion off the Champs, the Domaine Clarence Dillon dining room.

Three Michelin stars, Japanese precision in a Coq-Héron jewel-box dining room

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784, historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Two-star Ducasse dining room overlooking the Tuileries, with Cédric Grolet desserts