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Madeleine institution since 1927 — the first-floor caviar dining room above the boutique.

Christian Le Squer's three-Michelin showcase inside George V — the textbook for Paris haute cuisine.

Place de la Madeleine institution since 1839 — Hugo Bourny's contemporary take on the Art Nouveau room.

The Directoire mansion with the retractable roof — a multi-decade Paris institution off the Champs-Élysées.

Truffle institution on the Madeleine since 1932 — boutique downstairs, restaurant upstairs.

2-Michelin institution off Place des Ternes — 45 years of haute French classicism.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood — no meat.

Simone Zanoni's Mediterranean-Italian one-Michelin at George V — the palace alternative to a tasting menu.

Three-Michelin since 1996 — the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Yannick Alléno's three-Michelin in a pavilion at the Champs-Élysées gardens — the sauce-extraction reference.

Yasunari Okazaki's two-Michelin sushi counter inside Pavillon Ledoyen — twelve seats, ikejime fish.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

The Plaza's restored heritage-French dining room — recipes excavated from two-and-a-half centuries of menus.

Stéphanie Le Quellec's two-Michelin counter-front room on avenue Matignon.

Two-Michelin in an 1884 mansion off the Champs — the Domaine Clarence Dillon dining room.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy — the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Three Michelin stars, Japanese precision in a Coq-Héron jewel-box dining room

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Two-star Ducasse dining room overlooking the Tuileries, with Cédric Grolet desserts