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Emmanuel Ryon — MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion — turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615 — 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges — 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Paris's oldest artisanal coffee roaster — since 1880, still on the same Saint-Honoré sidewalk.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room — millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

France's oldest tea house since 1854 — the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant — Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram — boutique and salon