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Emmanuel Ryon — MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion — turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room — the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615 — 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges — 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

The Saint-Germain sourdough institution since 1932.

Christophe Vasseur's 1875-listed bakery on rue Yves Toudic — pain des amis, escargots, no shortcuts.

Best Baguette de Paris 2024 winner — sourdough, charcoal-black tradition, and weekend croissant programme

Paris's oldest artisanal coffee roaster — since 1880, still on the same Saint-Honoré sidewalk.

The 7e roastery that started Paris's specialty-coffee third wave in 2011.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room — millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

France's oldest tea house since 1854 — the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant — Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram — boutique and salon

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony — zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes — and serve them well.