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Emmanuel Ryon — MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion — turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room — the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615 — 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges — 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

The Saint-Germain sourdough institution since 1932.

The 7e roastery that started Paris's specialty-coffee third wave in 2011.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room — millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

France's oldest tea house since 1854 — the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant — Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.