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The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière, a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque, the SoPi room that never feels off.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier, the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Half-punk, half-precise, the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière, Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

The wine bar inside the Septime universe, 90 natural references, 30 standing seats, no booking.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro, fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

The 11e's reference bistro, steak-frites, soufflé, white tablecloths and zero affectation.

Pauline Séné's Top Chef-pedigreed bistronomy at the more ambitious end of rue Paul Bert.

Oberkampf natural-wine canteen, charcuterie and small plates, run by ex-Chateaubriand.

Vegetable-driven neo-bistro with a 400-bottle wine list and savoury-leaning desserts.