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MOF chef, 1-Michelin, Parisian-apartment dining on rue Bayen.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion — Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

1-Michelin garden-supplied dining room in a private Passy château-hotel.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Frédéric Anton's 3-Michelin pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.

The first Italian in Paris to win a Michelin star — 600-bottle list, 40 years on.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood — no meat.

Three-Michelin since 1996 — the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Yannick Alléno's three-Michelin in a pavilion at the Champs-Élysées gardens — the sauce-extraction reference.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Two Michelin stars, a Green Star, and surprise tasting menus.

Maxime Bouttier's first solo table — raw-and-living tasting menu on rue de la Folie Méricourt.

Philippe Starck's Mediterranean ground-floor in Evok's 16e flagship.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion — Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.