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The Melbourne brunch room that taught Montmartre flat whites.

Paris's oldest artisanal coffee roaster — since 1880, still on the same Saint-Honoré sidewalk.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes — and serve them well.

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram — boutique and salon

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615 — 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges — 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

The Saint-Germain sourdough institution since 1932.

Christophe Vasseur's 1875-listed bakery on rue Yves Toudic — pain des amis, escargots, no shortcuts.

Best Baguette de Paris 2024 winner — sourdough, charcoal-black tradition, and weekend croissant programme

Emmanuel Ryon — MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion — turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961 — still family-run, still the standard.

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil — Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

Paris's oldest chocolate shop since 1800 — Marie Antoinette's chemist's listed boutique on rue des Saints-Pères

The original Pigalle boutique — leather banquettes, art on every wall, brunch all weekend.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room — the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

Marais chocolatier with a tea room — millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.