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Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood — no meat.

Three-Michelin since 1996 — the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Yannick Alléno's three-Michelin in a pavilion at the Champs-Élysées gardens — the sauce-extraction reference.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Maxime Bouttier's first solo table — raw-and-living tasting menu on rue de la Folie Méricourt.

Frédéric Anton's 3-Michelin pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.

Husband-and-wife Michelin star on avenue de Versailles — chef Noam Gedalof, sommelier Etheliya Hananova.

MOF chef, 1-Michelin, Parisian-apartment dining on rue Bayen.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

Whitewashed teppanyaki bolthole — chef Koji Aida's Paris-Japan grammar since 2008.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

Christian Le Squer's three-Michelin showcase inside George V — the textbook for Paris haute cuisine.

Simone Zanoni's Mediterranean-Italian one-Michelin at George V — the palace alternative to a tasting menu.