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Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro — checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

Yasunari Okazaki's two-Michelin sushi counter inside Pavillon Ledoyen — twelve seats, ikejime fish.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro — fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

The 11e's reference bistro — steak-frites, soufflé, white tablecloths and zero affectation.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery — Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution — 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.