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A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony — zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Emmanuel Ryon — MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion — turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room — the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes — and serve them well.

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001 — matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil — Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

Cyril Lignac and Benoît Couvrand's original 11e patisserie — the Equinoxe was born here

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016 — the original room with the fox-mark logo

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730 — Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie — painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

The Melbourne brunch room that taught Montmartre flat whites.

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615 — 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges — 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room — millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.