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Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Emmanuel Ryon — MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion — turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730 — Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615 — 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges — 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room — millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.