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Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Stéphanie Le Quellec's two-Michelin counter-front room on avenue Matignon.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro — fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

The 11e's reference bistro — steak-frites, soufflé, white tablecloths and zero affectation.

Pauline Séné's Top Chef-pedigreed bistronomy at the more ambitious end of rue Paul Bert.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking — opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Vegetable-driven neo-bistro with a 400-bottle wine list and savoury-leaning desserts.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro — Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas — Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room