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Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Stéphanie Le Quellec's two-Michelin counter-front room on avenue Matignon.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre