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Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990, tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Italian trattoria in a former Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique, Le Fooding 'Best Decor' 2017, still buzzing.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas, Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Marais Korean BBQ, chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004, riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Simone Zanoni's Mediterranean-Italian one-Michelin at George V, the palace alternative to a tasting menu.

Franck Baranger's bistronomy benchmark, Bib Gourmand on a Pigalle backstreet.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque, the SoPi room that never feels off.

The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

The first Italian in Paris to win a Michelin star, 600-bottle list, 40 years on.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre