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The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal — Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Modern French bistronomic on a quiet Les Halles side street — chef-driven, value-strong tasting

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Septime's no-reservations seafood sister — daily-catch small plates on rue de Charonne.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking — opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière — a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque — the SoPi room that never feels off.

Brazilian asador — Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul — the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Mikaela Liaroutsos's Greek bistro on rue Eugène Carrière — Michelin Guide listing, Le Fooding regular.

Three-Michelin since 1996 — the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates