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The global gallery's Rome space in a 1920s rotunda

Contemporary art in the stables of a 16th-century palazzo

Pioneering contemporary gallery in 17th-century palazzo stables

Classical sculpture displayed against a 1900s power-station's turbines

Graffiti-walled Roman osteria on Via Panisperna since 1906

Esquilino stronghold of Roman cucina, carbonara that ranks

Art-of-bread bakery and café on Via Merulana since 1929

Thirty-year sister-run enoteca and restaurant off Piazza Trilussa

Esquilino's maritozzo temple since 1916

Rome's grand 1880 ice-cream palace in Esquilino

Third-generation Roman trattoria a few metres from the Pantheon

Renaissance-piazza seafood institution since 1938

Two-century Roman bakery near Campo de' Fiori

The natural-wine bar that changed Flaminio, by MAXXI

Textbook cucina romana cut into the amphora hill

Cacio e pepe as liturgy since 1911

Three-decade neighbourhood trattoria with day-specific menus

Checked-cloth family trattoria of pure Roman recipes

Gabriele Bonci's landmark pizza al taglio

All-day Prati canteen, wine bar and gastroteca