Στέκια in Madrid

Speakeasy-calm classic cocktails on Calle del Pez

The Villalón brothers' wine temple just off Gran Vía

Six-table San Sebastián cooking on the Ponzano corridor

Arzábal's garden restaurant inside the Reina Sofía

Persian market cuisine from a one-woman kitchen

Calle Argumosa's alternative tapas terrace

1921 English-club cocktail bar of Buñuel and Dalí

1827 taberna on Cervantes' old street

The Rastro's snail institution since 1942

The Cava Baja institution of huevos estrellados since 1974

A 1920 taberna reborn, ibérico-and-truffle croquetas and noble menú del día

Churros con chocolate in a marble-and-tile room since 1894

An eight-seat Michelin room hidden inside the world's great tablao

Madrid's only three-star, Dabiz Muñoz's avant-garde theatre

Pescaderías Coruñesas' Salamanca seafood institution

Steamship-styled seafood house in the business north

Seasonal market cooking and a cult cheesecake in stripped-back Chamberí

A 19th-century Salamanca palace with two Michelin stars downstairs

Iron-and-glass design five-star with a Michelin-starred kitchen

Mediterranean-leaning Japanese with a six-seat sushi bar

Cantabrian cooking in a minimalist-chic Salamanca townhouse

1929-rooted tin-bar taberna by the Retiro

Juanjo López's seasonal cocido house by the Retiro

Bohemian all-day kitchen with a Michelin-pedigree hand

1922 sherry-only bar frozen in Civil War Madrid

César Martín's modern Spanish cooking with cult croquetas

Bohemian Basque pintxo bar on Cava Baja since the 1980s

Madrid's 1839 grande-dame restaurant for cocido

Malasaña's mid-century living room, all day into the night

Arzak-trained signature cooking on Doctor Castelo

Chueca's real food market with a rooftop terrace

Lavapiés's real neo-Mudéjar market, from fishmongers to natural wine

Chamberí's 1933 market reborn as a boundary-pushing food hall

Beirut-rooted Levantine cooking, modernised in Chueca

Spain's modern-art museum and the home of Guernica

Three-decade Galician seafood house near the park

Lázaro Rosa-Violán-designed mansion hotel in Salesas

An 1886 building reworked by Lázaro Rosa-Violán, beside Retiro

Coco Montes' L'Arpège-trained microseasonal star near Bernabéu

Japanese-Mexican fusion in residential Chamartín

The barrio's benchmark for biryani and cheese naan

Artisan sourdough bakery across from the Conde Duque centre

Two-star chef's most personal 10-seat room in Salamanca

A 32-room 19th-century mansion on a quiet Chamberí street

Reborn Castellana grande dame with Jesús Sánchez's Amós

Michelin-starred revival of grand-hotel dining-room luxury

Nose-to-tail tapas served in an industrial cutting room on Ponzano

A former adult cinema reborn as a cultural bar-cinema

DiverXO's three-star chef's wild street-food counter

A 'wine cult' with 400+ wines by the glass on Ponzano

Madrid's second-oldest tavern, beloved of Lorca's generation

Small wine-led tapas tavern off the Retiro

Cava Baja vermut taberna with the secret 'Manuela' pour, since 1996

Neo-taberna with sharp Spanish tapas on the Conde Duque edge

Three-chef Bib Gourmand with half-portion freedom

Michelin-starred Spanish-twist Japanese counter

Madrid's first boutique five-star, in a 1915 neoclassical townhouse

Santceloni heirs' market cuisine, starred in 18 months

Michelin-starred izakaya with a WWII-bunker speakeasy below

1892 bodega, vermut de grifo and one of Madrid's best tortillas

1941 bullfighting tavern famed for its fried merluza

Reborn 1950s vermouth tavern on an 8-metre marble bar

One-star Mediterranean-Japanese bistro by Juan D'Onofrio

Michelin-starred creative Canary Island cuisine

Plaza de San Ildefonso specialty café and work-friendly hub

Lavapiés's avant-garde cultural centre with a rooftop terrace

Quiet old-school tapas bar beside the Conde Duque centre

Home-style Senegalese on Plaza Nelson Mandela

Tiny Georgian bistrot for khachapuri and khinkali

Eco specialty coffee and all-day brunch in Lavapiés

Belle Époque ducal palace-hotel with a private garden

Beam-and-stone Cava Baja wine taberna with a deep Spanish list