Hidden Gem Cafes

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room — the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram — boutique and salon

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615 — 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges — 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Marais chocolatier with a tea room — millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

The Saint-Germain sourdough institution since 1932.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony — zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

Christophe Vasseur's 1875-listed bakery on rue Yves Toudic — pain des amis, escargots, no shortcuts.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes — and serve them well.

Former Hugo & Victor relaunched under the chef's name — 2003 French Dessert Champion's first eponymous boutique