Στέκια in Paris

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street, the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

République speakeasy hidden behind a working laundromat, push the right washing-machine door, climb the staircase.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

French-spirits-only cocktail bar in a graffiti-clad doorway, World's 50 Best Bars regular.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Sentier rum den behind a grilled-cheese counter, Joseph Akhavan's 100-plus-rum library, Diffords-listed.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.