French in Paris

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Anglo-French neo-bistro on Faubourg Poissonnière, a wine list with weight, an unfussy kitchen.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie, Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room, marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay, chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

Belle Époque tiles, marionette-sized kitchen, neo-bistro cooking, opposite the Cirque d'Hiver.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914, Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

Cyril Lignac's classified-monument bistro, fish-forward menu in an 1894 zinc-and-mosaic room.

Southwest French institution since 1894, Art-Nouveau dining room beside the Halles épicerie.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Antoine Westermann's Montmartre poultry house, heritage breeds, rotisserie at the top of the hill.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784, historic monument with a kitchen in transition

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

Two Michelin since 1946, the institution where Paris learned modern restaurant service.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

Modern French bistronomic on a quiet Les Halles side street, chef-driven, value-strong tasting

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.