Allard

Allard opened in 1932 on rue Saint-André-des-Arts and has the dining room of every bistro you have imagined — zinc bar at the front, two narrow rooms behind, ceramic tile, floor mosaic with the family name. Alain Ducasse bought it in 2013, kept the room intact, and put an executive chef in charge of upholding the canon: Bresse chicken with morels, escargots de Bourgogne, duckling with olives (Madame Allard's Friday signature, kept on the daily card). The wine list is one of the deeper Burgundy lists on the Left Bank — 760 references, 4,240 bottles. Michelin Plate. Reserve; the front room is the better one.