Στέκια in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Oberkampf natural-wine canteen, charcuterie and small plates, run by ex-Chateaubriand.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

Female-led cocktail bar with bi-fold windows on the Belleville-Canal axis, zero pretension, real depth.

Naturophile cave-à-manger by the canal, visiting chefs, no reservations, minimum-intervention list.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière, Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street, the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008, David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

French-spirits-only cocktail bar in a graffiti-clad doorway, World's 50 Best Bars regular.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie, painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Sentier rum den behind a grilled-cheese counter, Joseph Akhavan's 100-plus-rum library, Diffords-listed.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant, Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil, Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001, matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades, tea room facing the Tuileries

The wine bar inside the Septime universe, 90 natural references, 30 standing seats, no booking.

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730, Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016, the original room with the fox-mark logo