City Centre

The same central core, read here through the lens of the sea: this is where the city's serious fish kitchens sit, the ones that buy whole at the dawn market and grill plainly with oil and lemon. A fisheria-style table where the catch is the menu, a contemporary Greek room with a Mediterranean hand, an ouzo-and-seafood ritual that locals treat as a weekly fixture. It is unfussy in the way confident seafood always is, the cooking measured by freshness rather than technique. Sit down hungry and let the day's haul decide.