Artisanal in Hacımemiş

Başak Cankeş's wearable-art house, where upcycled antique textiles become one-off pieces

Championship coffee by day, an award-winning bar by night, on the same counter

An Italian gelataio who fell for the Aegean and now churns the peninsula's most honest gelato off a Hacimemis corner

A working ceramic atelier on Paşadayı square, pots thrown on-site and taught hands-on