Authentic in Çeşme

Two hundred Turkish bottles in a pomegranate garden behind a 150-year-old house, wine boutique and kitchen under the same roof

An Italian gelataio who fell for the Aegean and now churns the peninsula's most honest gelato off a Hacimemis corner

Aegean meze read off both shores, served in a courtyard tucked between two 1850s Greek stone houses

A small, coffee-only room that fresh-roasts and means it

Alaçatı's first gallery, where the village's painters and ceramicists have shown since 2005

A year-round roaster that treats single origins as the whole point

Three generations of Aegean mastic worked off one Ugur Mumcu counter since 1945, sakizli dondurma, kurabiye and jams from the source

A working ceramic atelier on Paşadayı square, pots thrown on-site and taught hands-on

A family-run raki-and-fish meyhane at the bazaar mouth where you bring your own bottle

An owner-poured bar where the cocktail list is rewritten, not reprinted

Organic Grenache rosé and Tempranillo grown six kilometres of stone-terraced slope above the village, tasted facing Chios

Oktay Durna's three-thousand-piece Anatolian glass collection, housed in a Hacımemiş stone room

The Gemici family's own Alaçatı label, mastic-skinned white and Syrah, sold beside their jams and olive-oil soap

Diyarbakır charcoal craft married to the Aegean, with daily homemade meze from the owner's wife