Ippokampos
The locals' seafood ouzeri by the Venetian port
The old harbour around the Koules fortress, a sunset promenade of fish tavernas and cafés where the setting outshines the menu.
Heraklion's old harbour is anchored by the Koules sea fortress and the long Venetian arsenali, with a waterfront walk out to the breakwater that draws the whole city at dusk. The eating here is more about the setting than discovery — fish tavernas and cafés line the quay, reliable rather than revelatory, and you pay something for the view. The real reward is the promenade itself: the fortress lit up, fishing boats, and the sea on three sides. Come for a sunset drink and a fish plate, and keep expectations on the harbour-view side rather than the menu.
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Seafront museum on the Venetian walls, home to two El Greco paintings
13th-century Venetian basilica turned the city's municipal art gallery
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