Lugares in Florence

Boisterous 1913 San Marco trattoria that wins locals first

Campo di Marte trattoria on a quiet gourmet path since 1952

Tiny organic salotto for plant-leaning breakfast and lunch near Pitti

Florence's last great enoteca, standing-room since 1880

The affordable face of Fabio Picchi's Sant'Ambrogio cult kitchen

Wine-bar bistro of handmade pasta a step from the Duomo

Francesco Sanapo's specialty-coffee roaster on the artisan left bank

The original 2013 specialty-coffee bar minutes from Santa Croce

Florence's legendary flourless chocolate cake, since the 1980s

Family wine shop and tasting since 1934, beyond the tourist belt

Wood-panelled wine bar by the old San Miniato gate, 600+ labels

No-frills San Frediano trattoria for peposo and fiorentina

Twenty-year Neapolitan wood-fired pizzeria near Sant'Ambrogio

1981 San Niccolo bar-bistrot with a hidden garden

Tiny exposed-brick enoteca for small Tuscan growers and cured plates

Café, aperitivo and culture inside a Renzo Piano-restored former prison

Revered since-1992 wine bar of small independent growers near Ponte Vecchio

Art-bookshop and vegetarian kitchen tucked behind Santa Croce

Tiny Lebanese saj kitchen with home-cook authenticity

Cult San Frediano craft-cocktail bar with an irreverent list

Shabby-chic neighbourhood wine bar in Le Cure

Twentieth-century and contemporary art in a former Leopoldine hospital

Tuscan osteria in a medieval crypt off Via San Niccolò

Florence's only sit-down tripperia, lampredotto done seriously

Old-Tuscan tavern right on Fiesole's main piazza

Florence's leading stage for international contemporary art

1928 pasticceria-cafe with Piemontese roots near Annunziata

Florentine-favoured trattoria on Piazza San Marco by the Accademia

Charcoal-grilled Ottoman and Anatolian cooking, the city's credible Turkish room

Greenhouse wine bar in a riverside garden by Porta San Frediano

Storied Piazza della Passera trattoria with its famous pear fiocchetti

Florentine institution and wine cellar since 1901

Long-standing Oltrarno trattoria off Piazza del Carmine

1956 family trattoria, the homecooked heart of Santo Spirito

Family canteen behind the Mercato Centrale since 1953

Lunch-only 1915 trattoria by San Lorenzo, run by the fourth generation

Late-night neighbourhood wine room on Borgo San Frediano

Carpenter's-workshop cafe-bar on Piazza Santo Spirito with live music