Lugares in Florence

Boisterous 1913 San Marco trattoria that wins locals first

Tiny organic salotto for plant-leaning breakfast and lunch near Pitti

Florence's last great enoteca, standing-room since 1880

Wine-bar bistro of handmade pasta a step from the Duomo

Francesco Sanapo's specialty-coffee roaster on the artisan left bank

The original 2013 specialty-coffee bar minutes from Santa Croce

Florence's legendary flourless chocolate cake, since the 1980s

Wood-panelled wine bar by the old San Miniato gate, 600+ labels

No-frills San Frediano trattoria for peposo and fiorentina

Twenty-year Neapolitan wood-fired pizzeria near Sant'Ambrogio

1981 San Niccolo bar-bistrot with a hidden garden

Tiny exposed-brick enoteca for small Tuscan growers and cured plates

Café, aperitivo and culture inside a Renzo Piano-restored former prison

Revered since-1992 wine bar of small independent growers near Ponte Vecchio

Art-bookshop and vegetarian kitchen tucked behind Santa Croce

Tiny Lebanese saj kitchen with home-cook authenticity

Shabby-chic neighbourhood wine bar in Le Cure

Twentieth-century and contemporary art in a former Leopoldine hospital

Tuscan osteria in a medieval crypt off Via San Niccolò

Florence's only sit-down tripperia, lampredotto done seriously

Old-Tuscan tavern right on Fiesole's main piazza

Florence's leading stage for international contemporary art

1928 pasticceria-cafe with Piemontese roots near Annunziata

Florentine-favoured trattoria on Piazza San Marco by the Accademia

Charcoal-grilled Ottoman and Anatolian cooking, the city's credible Turkish room

Greenhouse wine bar in a riverside garden by Porta San Frediano

Storied Piazza della Passera trattoria with its famous pear fiocchetti

Florentine institution and wine cellar since 1901

Family canteen behind the Mercato Centrale since 1953

Lunch-only 1915 trattoria by San Lorenzo, run by the fourth generation