Cafe in Çeşme

The 1945 İnkılap Caddesi corner where damla sakızlı dondurma was invented — a Mersin family pastane now in its third generation

The Çeşme kumru, made by the same family since 1970

Stone terrace at the gate of Erythrai antique city — the Ildırı sunset bench with takımadalar in frame

The original sakızlı muhallebi house — the recipe the rest of the country has spent twenty years trying to copy

The Demirel family's handmade Alaçatı patisserie — a quiet bakery counter the village uses for birthdays it actually means

The Akbulut family's 2014 Alaçatı gelato counter — a Financial Times top-25 boutique, a hundred-and-fifty rotating flavours, made on site every morning

Hacımemiş's mulberry-tree corner since 1963 — the village's classical Turkish coffee bench, untouched by the specialty wave

The peninsula's serious specialty coffee bar — Guatemala, Colombia, Kenya, Ethiopia on rotation, a Hacımemiş regulars' room

A breakfast garden among Ovacık's vines — own house wine, own jams, own menemen

Nihal Hanım's garden in Saip village — forty house jams, mountain-foraged herbs, breakfast cooked by the village women