Locali in Crete

A modern rakadiko where locals actually eat

All-day Greek bistro blending Hellenic and Levantine flavours

Clay-pot-over-coals taverna under the plane tree in Gavalochori

Contemporary Greek folk-art ceramics workshop

Mansion-style Cretan cuisine a block from Peskesi

In-house coffee roaster and microbrewery in the Korai grid

Wood-fire farm taverna cooking only over fire from its own land

All-day cafe and wine bar on the edge of Splantzia square

Tiny market-driven kitchen, the chef's daily haul is the menu

Craft cocktails in a 16th-century stone building

The locals' seafood ouzeri by the Venetian port

All-day room for specialty coffee, light Mediterranean plates and wine

Rhône varieties on Cretan soil, with a serious tasting room

Coffee cut into the cliffs of the tanneries

Art-and-music bar-restaurant in a 1950s ice factory

Antikristo over open fire in a 200-year-old stone building near Vamos

Cretan cooking on hot bricks in a 1900 old-town house

Organic family estate of indigenous reds at Siva

Stone-oven Cretan institution in the centre of Vamos

Industrial-chic cocktail bar anchoring Korai Square

Cretan-Ottoman cooking in a 600-year-old hammam off Splantzia

Cliffside Cretan plates beneath the Fortezza

Prohibition-style speakeasy in the gallery behind Lions Square

Crete's pioneering third-wave espresso and wine bar with a roof terrace

Cretan cooking inside Venetian-Ottoman ruins, open to the sky

The Splantzia seafood mezedopoleio locals queue for

Inventive cocktails in the courtyard of a restored 1900s house on Korai

Greek-wine bar with a romantic terrace near Eleftherias Square

All-day bagel and coffee counter from the team behind Five

Greek-Levantine cooking down a Splantzia alley with a steam-bath well