Cais do Sodré / Bica

Cais do Sodré turned from a rough port district into one of Lisbon's busiest nights without losing its edge, its former red-light street now lined with bars and small kitchens. Just above, the Bica funicular crawls up one of the steepest, most photographed lanes in the city, into a tangle of stairways and tiled houses. The mix of riverside market hall, late bars and quiet residential climbs makes for a long, varied evening. Eat early at the market, then let the hill take you upward.