Locali in Lisbon

Belgian-Portuguese dining in a 17th-century convent cloister

Candlelit Italo-Portuguese small plates with a tight natural list

Jose Avillez's two-Michelin-star contemporary Portuguese flagship

Tiny market-driven bistro from two young chef-owners

Chef Hugo Brito's deconstructed Portugal in a former Alfama butcher shop

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Marble-and-wood petiscos between tasca and fine dining

Nun-run canteen with one of Lisbon's best secret views

Peruvian cooking by Diego Munoz with the Avillez group

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

The Anjos seafood institution since the 1950s

1947 beer-hall marisqueira for shellfish straight from the tank

Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Italian-grandmother cooking in a former Beato video shop

Ground-zero natural-wine deli, cellar and bar

Specialty coffee and real-food brunch in a former pharmacy

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

Family tinned-fish house unchanged since 1930

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Tiny, tightly edited specialty bar by Principe Real

Joachim Koerper's Michelin-starred room above Parque Eduardo VII

Pioneering Lisbon roaster on a 5kg Probatone

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Thirty-year river-terrace dining room above Santa Apolónia

Mid-century landmark hotel above the park with a serious dining stable

Wood-panelled seafood institution running since 1936

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

London-born regional Indian, Bib Gourmand in Chiado

In-house-roasted specialty coffee and magazines in Bica

Grand brasserie of altitude inside a centenary Avenida theatre

Eight-seat kaiseki counter from Paulo Morais

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Riverfront museum of art, architecture and technology

The pastel de nata, made to order behind glass

The cult pastel de nata, freshly gonged, minus the Belém queue

Lisbon's oldest restaurant, Pessoa's café since 1782

Adults-only design hotel with the best terrace over Alfama's rooftops

Light-filled all-day café for creative brunch in Belém

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Progressive Alentejo and talha wine at a U-shaped marble bar

Decades-old Alentejano specialist for roast kid and rice

Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

Slow-fermented artisan bakery from Vitor Sobral & Mário Rolando

1943 pastelaria, repeat 'best pastel de nata' winner

Nose-to-tail Alentejano pork in a no-frills Campo de Ourique room

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

Globe-trotting small plates and an all-natural drinks list

Farm-to-table room and natural-wine flagship by António Galapito

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

Fifteen-room townhouse hotel with a garden-fed kitchen

27-seat modern taberna for inventive petiscos near the Pantheon

Henrique Sa Pessoa's tapas-and-petiscos vermouth bar

Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room

Vitor Sobral's reinvented corner tavern

Palace-turned-suites hotel atop Bairro Alto

Sourdough, pastry and specialty coffee at 8 Marvila

1933 grand hotel anchoring the avenue's luxury axis

Restored 18th-century palace above the Bica miradouro

The bacalhau tasca chefs name as the city's best

Charcoal ribs and communal benches in a Mouraria alley