Locali in Lisbon

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Ground-zero natural-wine deli, cellar and bar

Specialty coffee and real-food brunch in a former pharmacy

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

Family tinned-fish house unchanged since 1930

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

The brewery that started Lisbon's Beer District

Sleek Marvila brewpub with a view of the silos

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

Former drugstore turned slow-food wine bar

In-house-roasted specialty coffee and magazines in Bica

Low-lit cocktail and oyster bar themed around the printed word

Brazilian-accented wine bar and petiscos in a leafy Principe Real corner

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Riverfront museum of art, architecture and technology

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Nose-to-tail Alentejano pork in a no-frills Campo de Ourique room

Destination natural-wine bar and shop by Jardim da Estrela

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

Natural-wine bar and merceria in the heart of the bairro

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar