Locali in Lisbon

Tiny market-driven bistro from two young chef-owners

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Italian-grandmother cooking in a former Beato video shop

Ground-zero natural-wine deli, cellar and bar

Specialty coffee and real-food brunch in a former pharmacy

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

Family tinned-fish house unchanged since 1930

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Tiny, tightly edited specialty bar by Principe Real

Pioneering Lisbon roaster on a 5kg Probatone

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

In-house-roasted specialty coffee and magazines in Bica

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Riverfront museum of art, architecture and technology

Light-filled all-day café for creative brunch in Belém

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Decades-old Alentejano specialist for roast kid and rice

Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

Nose-to-tail Alentejano pork in a no-frills Campo de Ourique room

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

27-seat modern taberna for inventive petiscos near the Pantheon

Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room

Sourdough, pastry and specialty coffee at 8 Marvila

The bacalhau tasca chefs name as the city's best