Locali in London

Eighteenth-century Lexington Street townhouse with a handwritten daily menu, the last romantic room in old Soho

Sam and Sam Clark's Exmouth Market Moorish room, the 1997 landmark that taught London Spanish-and-North-African cooking.

Bloomsbury French, the silver duck press, the classical menu and one of the very last rooms in Europe still pressing canard à la presse.

Farringdon Road's Grade II 1869 working-class chop house, Shaun Searley's revival of the listed-bench institution.

Britain's oldest Indian restaurant, open on Regent Street since 1926 and now in its hundredth year.

Lowndes Street's Italian institution since 1995, the Belgravia trattoria that taught London regional pasta