Locali in London

London's first authentic Antep baklavacı since 1993, Murat Üstünsürmeli's Grand Parade pastry house

Dean Street's no-music, no-mobiles holdout, the Soho the audience first read about in the 80s

Boundary Street's Bombay Irani café, the bacon naan roll Londoners queue for at breakfast

Green Lanes' top-edged Southeastern Anatolian ocakbaşı, kuzu pirzola the Anatolian standard

Coal Drops Yard sit-down taqueria, al pastor on a vertical spit, the rebranded Casa Pastor

The Yavuz family's Green Lanes flagship since 1999, the polished mainstream of London Turkish

The original Ali Dirik ocakbaşı on Arcola Street since 1990, BYOB, walk-in only, untouched

Sam and Sam Clark's tapas-bar sister to Moro, eight metres along the same row, the small-plate version of the same kitchen.

The fresh-pasta queue London actually accepts, Shoreditch sister of the Borough original

Michael and Charlotte Sager-Wildeve's Hackney Road wine bar, the East London natural-wine reference since 2013