Locali in London

Sam and Sam Clark's Exmouth Market Moorish room, the 1997 landmark that taught London Spanish-and-North-African cooking.

Hauser & Wirth's reimagined Mayfair pub, Sunday roast under a Phyllida Barlow ceiling

Piccadilly's grand café, the Viennese-Parisian brasserie that runs from breakfast to supper

Keith McNally's Russell Street brasserie, the SoHo Manhattan original transposed to Covent Garden, twelve years in.

Henrietta Street's modern British room from the Kitty Fisher's team, clubby, candle-lit, opera-night reliable.

St Martin's Court's 1890s seafood institution, Theatreland's pre-curtain Dover sole

London's oldest restaurant, Maiden Lane since 1798, four families across ten reigns, and the game-and-claret Britain that has not changed.

Fergus Henderson's nose-to-tail manifesto since 1994, the white-walled Smithfield room that wrote modern British cooking.

Mayfair mews chophouse since 1952, beef Wellington and steak-and-kidney pie

Farringdon Road's Grade II 1869 working-class chop house, Shaun Searley's revival of the listed-bench institution.

Britain's oldest Indian restaurant, open on Regent Street since 1926 and now in its hundredth year.

Lowndes Street's Italian institution since 1995, the Belgravia trattoria that taught London regional pasta