Caviar Kaspia

Caviar Kaspia at 17 place de la Madeleine has been running since 1927 — first-floor dining room above the ground-floor boutique, blini-and-caviar service in the original wood-panelled space, a cellar of vodka, champagne and Russian wines. This is one of the canonical Paris addresses, the kind that has stayed itself for nearly a century while everything around it has rotated. The format is straightforward — caviar-centric small plates, smoked fish, the famous baked potato with caviar — and the pleasure is the room itself, the ritual, the staff who have worked here decades.