Locali in Paris

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961 — still family-run, still the standard.

Paris's oldest artisanal coffee roaster — since 1880, still on the same Saint-Honoré sidewalk.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges — 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

Since 1979 on rue des Rosiers — the Pletzl falafel sandwich Lenny Kravitz and Natalie Portman keep coming back for.

1898 Art Nouveau dining room, classified historic monument — Belle Époque bouillon revived.

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615 — 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

Emmanuel Ryon — MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion — turns gelato into Marais grand cru.